What a system does
The most common approach pulls radon from beneath the foundation and vents it outdoors before it can get inside. In a typical house with a basement or slab, that means a pipe set through the floor, a fan that runs continuously, and a vent that discharges above the roofline. A gauge on the pipe shows the fan is pulling. Homes with crawl spaces, dirt floors, or several foundation types need a design to match.
The right design depends on the house, which is why contractors look at the foundation before quoting.
Who can install one
Rhode Island regulates this work. Under the state's radon regulation, mitigation for hire has to be done by a Rhode Island licensed radon mitigation contractor, and the people doing the work hold their own state credentials as supervisors and workers. The Department of Health publishes the list of licensed contractors, and you should confirm any company you hire is on it.
The regulation exempts an owner mitigating a home they own or lease themselves. Most owners still hire a licensed contractor, because a system that is sized or sealed poorly can leave the level where it started.
Test again after it's installed
The Department of Health says testing should be performed after any radon mitigation work. It's the only way to know the system did its job. For schools, day cares, and other public buildings, Rhode Island's regulation goes further and requires that test to come from a certified testing business that isn't under the contractor's control. Homes have no such rule, but the idea is a good one: have someone other than the installer confirm the result against the EPA action level of 4.0 pCi/L.
Ask any contractor how the follow-up test is arranged, who performs it, and whether it's included in the quote.
What to ask before you hire
- Are you licensed by the Rhode Island Department of Health as a radon mitigation contractor?
- Where will the pipe and fan go, and where does it vent?
- Who performs the post-installation test?
- What does the warranty cover, and what happens if the level is still at or above 4.0 pCi/L?
- What does the fan cost to run and replace?
Already have a system?
Systems need attention. Check the gauge now and then; if it reads zero or the fan is silent, the system isn't working. Retest every few years even when everything looks fine. If you've bought a house with an old system and no paperwork, a test is the quickest way to know whether it's still doing its job. See radon testing.
Selling with a known high result? See radon and home sales.